A coquille Saint-Jacques is a mollusk found along the French coast and on restaurant menus. But its name is curious: what does Saint James have to do with a type of seafood?
To understand the connection, we need to talk about Santiago de Compostela and one of the most famous symbols of the pilgrimage. Since the Middle Ages, the scallop shell has been associated with pilgrims traveling to Compostela. It eventually became a symbol of the pilgrimage itself.
The saint and the pilgrimage
In French, Santiago de Compostela is called Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle. According to Christian tradition, the tomb of Saint James the Great, one of Jesus's apostles, is located in the city. Since the Middle Ages, pilgrims from across Europe have traveled the different routes leading to Compostela.
When they arrived in Galicia, pilgrims could find the shells along the coast or buy them in Compostela. They attached them to their hats, clothing, or bags. On the journey home, the shell showed that the pilgrim had completed the pilgrimage. Over time, it became an emblem of the pilgrimage itself.
Why this shell?
The shape of the scallop shell makes it particularly easy to recognize. Its ribs spread outward from the base like a fan. In the Middle Ages, it was also compared to a comb because of its many lines. That comparison survives in its scientific name, Pecten maximus: the Latin word pecten means "comb."
The shell has appeared in images of Saint James and pilgrims for centuries. Even today, it is used to mark the routes to Santiago de Compostela in France, Spain, and elsewhere in Europe. You can see it on signs, monuments, and waymarkers showing walkers which direction to follow.
The story people tell
Like many ancient symbols, the scallop shell has its legends. One tells of a knight who fell into the sea and was saved through Saint James. When he emerged from the water, either his body or his horse was covered in shells. There are several versions of the story, all attempting to explain the connection between the saint and the shell.
They are beautiful stories, but they are not historical proof. What we do know is that the shell was already associated with pilgrims to Compostela during the Middle Ages. Gradually, it became a symbol of Saint James and his pilgrimage.
From Compostela to the dinner table
Today, the same name is well known in a very different context: food. On a French menu, les coquilles Saint-Jacques refers to this seafood, prized for its white flesh. You will also hear la noix de Saint-Jacques for the white part that is eaten. The orange part, when present, is called le corail.
Scallops are particularly important in some coastal regions of France. In Brittany, for example, Coquille Saint-Jacques des Côtes-d'Armor has IGP status, or indication géographique protégée (protected geographical indication). This protection recognizes fishing practices and expertise associated with the region.
A symbol that is still everywhere
The coquille Saint-Jacques therefore has two very different lives. For a pilgrim, the shell represents the route to Compostela, a journey that walkers from across Europe have been making for centuries. For someone sitting in a French restaurant, it is more likely to bring to mind seafood served pan-seared, gratinéed, or simply prepared with butter.
Yet the two meanings are connected. The name of the mollusk recalls the ancient association between this particular shell and the pilgrims of Santiago de Compostela. A medieval symbol has become a name that you can still find today on restaurant menus and at fishmongers throughout France.
Before you go
If you see coquilles Saint-Jacques on a French menu, the name does not come from a recipe or a sauce dedicated to a saint. It recalls the ancient connection between the scallop shell and the pilgrims of Santiago de Compostela.
For the French names of mussels, oysters, crabs, and other seafood, see Fish and seafood.